The La Sportiva Otakis are a great pair of climbing shoes!
Climbing 2-3 times a week I've worn them in adequately in about 4 weeks. Now, they make fantastic shoes for overhanging routes and even slabbing on micro-edges. The vibram XS edge rubber is extremely solid and stands on next to nothing. The only downside of this is the consequent lack of sensitivity, but that's a small price to pay for what they enable.
Of course, being quite a stiff downturned shoe you won't be smearing all that well, but that's not what they were made for.
I was personally recommended these by a friend and I would do the same.
La Sportiva Otaki Rock Climbing Shoe: UK 6.5 | EU 40, Blue FlameV/La_Sportiva_Otaki_Rock_Climbing_Shoe_UK_65_EU_40_Blue_Flame-(122486)
The New La Sportiva Otaki is a precise, supportive and structured climbing shoe for intermediate to advanced climbers.
Size:Uk 6.5 | eu 40
Blue / orange / grey
Brand Colour:Blue Flame - Blue/Orange/Grey
Shaped with an emphasis on pushing power through your toes whilst maintaining stability at the heel, the La Sportiva Otaki ticks all the boxes for climbers looking for performance on all terrains. The Otaki features the comfort advantages of an all around snug slipper construction with the integrated volume adjustment and precise fit from two velcro opposing closures. The addition of La Sportiva's innovative S-Heel design maintains the torsional stability of the shoe, allowing for each movement to remain controlled, precise and comfortable. The Otaki will form to your foot like a glove and follow your movements fluidly. Set up for heel hooking thanks to the S-Heel, the Otaki will also excel when edging thanks to the Vibram XS-Edge rubber on the sole.
'Otaki' in Japanese Samurai slang is the oldest single wire sword - its features are sharp and precise on small targets. These same attributes have been reflected in the shoes from a climbing perspective allowing for precise footwork on small holds.
The Otaki fits into La Sportiva’s range as a slightly less aggressive cousin to the Solution that will suit intermediate to advanced climbers.
Patented S-Heel™ construction provides optimal heel hooking maneuverability and the perfect heel cup fit
P3® patented technology coupled with the new innovative split-sole construction allows the sole to spread when weighted, reducing edge deformation
Sticky rubber toe patch for toe hooks and scums
Maximum sensitivity and precision also in torsion: the shoe perfectly follows the movements of the foot and avoids empty volumes and rigid points
Heel shell with innovative S-Heel ™: maintains perfect stability in torsion accentuating the performance and adaptability in the heel hooking
Upper: Microfibre and suede leather, tubular construction
Lining: Pacific front
Midsole: 1,1 mm LaSpoFlex + P3 System
Sole: 4 mm Vibram XS-Edge
Rand: Slingshot rand tied to the P3® (Permanent Power Platform)
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