Everything you ever needed to know about buying a stunt / freestyle scooter, including parts and accessories here in our scooter buying guide.
A Stunt or Extreme scooter is designed specifically to withstand a lot of punishment whist doing tricks in a skatepark or on the streets. You can do jumps, grinds and stalls on any terrain and it is much less likely to break. Extreme scooters don’t feature a folding mechanism or adjustable handlebar height as it weakens the over-all strength of the scooter and they are heavier because the parts are reinforced for strength. You can generally upgrade most of the parts, but customers should check that parts will fit before purchasing. Extreme scooters are generally more expensive than recreational or folding scooters with prices varying from £70 to £300+. Higher-end models are much stronger and forged with stronger metals as well as having more advanced components.
Most extreme scooters are designed for any ability level and suitable for ages 7 years and above but most have a 100kg limit - the product description will give exact information on this.
If you want a scooter to simply ride around on the streets, as opposed to using in a skate park, then a folding scooter like the JD Bug would be ideal. The fact that they fold up means they are easy to simply pick up chuck into a car, or hold when you go into a shop. Most JD Bug scooters also come with shoulder straps so they are easy to carry!
We recommend that all riders wanting to learn how to perform tricks opt for a fixed scooter - attempting to perform tricks on a folding scooter may void your warranty!
If you really want the best performance, strength, weight and style from your scooter, there really is only one option – Custom built Scooters.
Here at Absolute we select our favourite parts and build them up into one off Scooters that will attract stares in the park and blow your mind with the performance they give. We offer a range of custom builds to suit rider skill and wallets but no two will EVER be the same so you can rest assured your sick new ride is a one of a kind!
Scooter handlebars come in lots of different styles, shapes and colours, but essentially all do the same thing. If you do a do a lot of jumps and tricks you’ll want to get yourself a good set of handlebars. Welded one-piece handlebars are the strongest. Lots of riders prefer a ‘Y’ or ‘Bat wing’ shape handlebar for stunt and park riding.
There are various sizes in the diameter of the tubing - standard and oversized. Please be aware of which size you need. Most aluminium bars, although they fit on a standard size fork, they tend to be thicker (as aluminium is lighter) which means you will also need an oversized clamp. The Blazer quad clamp is very popular, and suited for both sizes.
Scooter headsets are responsible for allowing the fork and bars to turn.
There are 2 types of headsets, threaded or threadless.
The threaded system has 2 nuts which threads on the fork in order to keep the headset together. If these nuts become loose, they could make your scooter wobbly!! If this happens, you will need to tighten them to a medium tightness (but not too tight, so it locks the headset).
A threadless system will need threadless forks (also known as a compression system). Instead of the 2 nuts, it uses a long threaded bolt, which runs up through the forks into the handlebars. This pulls the bars down on to the headset compressing the bearings and cups. This generally provides a far more solid or ‘dialled’ ride.
Scooter forks should be chosen depending on the type of headset system you choose. If you choose a threaded headset you will need a threaded fork and vice versa. More expensive forks will be stronger and lighter.
Scooter wheels are an essential component to get right if you want your scooter to be as fast and as smooth as possible. Plastic core wheels are fine if you want to just cruise around, but if you ride at skate parks and do a lot of tricks, then a metal core wheel is the way to go – they will last a lot longer and often come with a higher quality urethane on the outer side ( the bit that touches the floor )!
Wheel sizes - The majority of wheels you can buy for scooters have a diameter of 100mm or 110mm. Check which size your scooter takes before you buy!
Flat spots – flat spots basically occur when you stamp down hard on the brake, the friction at the point of contact causes it to wear down very quickly. Unfortunately flat spots are unavoidable and not a fault with the wheel, so if you want your wheels to last longer – try and brake smoothly and gently where you can.
Bearings are the small round parts that slot into the wheel allowing you to roll and keep up speed. Most bearings come with an ABEC rating, the higher the rating, the better / faster the bearing.
Scooter riding gives a lot of force on the bearing and excessive force will cause them to break and fall apart. This is why it’s important to choose a bearing which is strong and will last as long as possible. Ceramic or swiss bearings are the best ones out there but can be expensive. Krunk K2’s are very popular and affordable.
If you clean and look after your bearings, and keep them away from water they will last much longer! You can clean and lubricate them with a medium weight oil such as Bones Speed Cream or even a Lithium Grease suitable for bicycle hubs.
The brakes on scooters are very simple foot breaks that gets pushed down on the back wheel with your foot causing friction and slowing you down. There are two main types of scooter brakes: a spring brake and a flex brake.
The Spring Brake uses a small spring to release the brake from the wheel, whereas the flex brake is a much simpler system that uses the stiffness of the metal to release the break from the wheel. Both work well with the Flex Brake generally having a longer life. Flex brakes are generally better for more advanced riders as you are less likely to flatspot your wheel if you land on it.
Scooter grips are what you’re going to be holding onto a lot so it’s good to get a pair that you like the feel of and will last. There are lots of different styles and colours of grips to choose. All grips will fit all bars – try using hairspray to make it easier to get them on.
Grip tape is what is going to help keep your feet on the deck! It’s a good idea to try and keep your grip tape as clean and dry as possible to get the most out of it. You can buy scooter grip tape already pre-cut to shape or in a sheet and you can trim it to fit yourself. Colour is always an essential thing to consider when choosing your grip tape!
These attach to your axles to allow you to grind and stall your scooter. There are a variety of different styles and not all will fit on every scooter so make sure you check before you buy. The 81 Customs pegs come with a variety of axles so should fit 99% of all scooters.
Clamps are used to "clamp" the handle bars onto a threaded fork. The more clamping power the less likely the rider is to suffer from wheel off-set. Some riders use more than 1 clamp to maximise performance. Make sure that you get a clamp that will fit your bars – you will need a bigger clamp to fit oversize handlebars.
Compression is the amount of pressure that is applied from the top and bottom to your headset.
The Compression in this system is applied by the lower nut which screws down the Forks and covers the top cup of your Headset. To adjust Threaded Compression Systems properly does require a pair of Headset spanners. The bottom spanner is often skinnier than the top one. Once you have adjusted the bottom nut to your requirements you will then screw down the second nut to meet the first one.
Note : Threadless Headsets can be used with Threaded Forks and Threaded Compression Systems, as long as the top nut is used to stop the Compression coming loose . This nut will require Thread Locking solution in order to stop the single nut coming undone .
This type of Compression can be used with all Threadless Forks and some Threaded Forks and is only possible with Threadless Headsets . This form of Compression is widely considered as a step-up from Threaded Compression , mainly because , that with ICS it will enable you to incorperate sealed Headsets which can require very little maintenance .
The Compression with this system is applied to the Headset via a long bolt which runs upwards inside the Forks. This Bolt threads in to a Starnut which must be correctly installed into your Bars ( The Starnut should be installed so that the middle of the threaded portion of the ICS Bolt finishs in the middle of the Starnut ).
This Compression System is considered by most riders to be a step above ICS . Although we would advise you that this type of Compression System is best suited to riders with very good mechanical skills . The Compression with this system is delivered to the Headset between the SCS Clamp and the lower Bearing race in the Forks by tightening a Bolt inside the Clamp which connects to a Starnut inside the Fork tube .
All Bars to be used with SCS must have the bottom slots removed . You should bear this in mind when purchasing your Bars because the bottom slots can vary from 30mm to 60mm . Some retailers offer a Bar cutting service . Don’t forget to get it done or make sure that you have the facilities to do the work yourself .
HIC is definitely becoming more popular . This Compression system works with Threadless forks only .The Compression with HIC is applied in similar sense to SCS . Except that all of the Compression system is hidden inside the Bars .
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